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Things to know
- These tips have been developed to help you preserve and retain the value of your car. Unfortunately, there are people who have taken reproduction cars and tried to make them look like early originals. Due to the proliferation of reproductions over the past 30+ years, it is better to leave your car in original, as-raced condition.
- Don't clean it
- Resist repainting, restoring, cleaning or polishing. This removes the patina which helps identify the car as an original. If you have to clean it, just a mild cleaning is suggested.
- Put it on stands
- Don't rest the car on it's tires. Tires will develop flat spots. It is best to rise the tires off the surface by resting the car on blocks or rotate tires 1/4 turn once a month.
- Types of cars
- Tether cars came in all shapes and sizes.
- The Proto or conventional types were styled to resemble the full size midgets of the day. Typically, they had an open cockpit.
- The Streamliners designs varied, but used an enclosed cabin or teardrop shape. These cars were the fastest.
- Class B
- These are the larger size cars with .60 CID engines and lengths typically 15 – 22” (usually approx. 17”) and weighing 6 – 8 pounds.
- Class A
- Also known as mite cars usually range from 9 – 14” in length and use .36 or less CID engines.
- The little cars are powered by a non-radio controlled model aeroplane engine, ( two stroke, glow plug, piston liner, etc. ) and run on fuel supplied by a fuel tank within the car.
- Tether cars were developed beginning in the 1920s–1930s and still are built, raced and collected today. First made by hobby craftsmen, tether cars were later produced in small numbers by commercial manufacturers such as Dooling Brothers, Dick McCoy, BB Korn, and many others.
- There are tracks in Australia (Brisbane and Sydney), New Zealand, Switzerland, Estonia, Ukraine, Russia, America and more. World Championships are held every 3 years. Today, tether cars are run throughout the world.